Da Nang: Vietnam’s friendly and affordable beachside metropolis
Set beside a long, sandy beach, Da Nang offers surfing and sunbathing in abundance – as well as all the pleasures of a big city. Here’s how one traveller got a taste for this bustling, cosmopolitan metropolis.
Image by Craig Hindmarsh
Where to stay in Da Nang
My first two nights were spent in New Sky Hotel, located a few kilometres north of the main tourist area of Mỹ An. The room cost the equivalent of 170K VND (£5.50), which is incredibly cheap considering it featured air conditioning. However, given the low January temperatures, the AC remote was left well alone. The (very) thin walls and lack of windows reminded me that I shouldn’t rush when booking hotel rooms! I decided to take my next room in Mỹ An, where there are more restaurants, cafes and bars (and thicker walls).
For the next few days I stayed in the Tehana Beachside Hotel, which was almost as affordable as New Sky, but had the notable advantage of windows – which provide great views of the mountains to the north. The staff were extremely friendly, and the hotel was only a five minute walk from the city’s excellent beach.
Next I moved into the very heart of bustling Mỹ An, where the Gold Time Hotel offered rooms for about £8 per night. However, the Vietnamese New Year – known as Tet (29th January) – saw rates rise by about 20%, and stay elevated for several days. On the plus side, the affable manager invited me for a New Year’s Eve drink with his friends in the hotel lobby – an unexpected invite which I duly accepted.
Celebrating Tet – Vietnamese New Year – Image by Craig Hindmarsh
What to do in Da Nang
The Marble Mountains
A friend and I took a taxi to the Marble Mountains, although our visit was delayed when the driver persuaded us to visit a sculpture store enroute. A lady spent 10 minutes failing to persuade us to buy everything from emerald-coloured bracelets to vast elephant sculptures. Despite the hard-sell, we had to admit many of the items were beautifully made.
Image by Craig Hindmarsh
The Marble Mountains themselves were superb – I hadn’t expected them to be so vast. Inside, there are various caverns to explore, many of which feature some very odd-looking sculpted figures engaging in some rather painful activities. One of the larger caves featured a huge gong – which I took great pleasure in thwacking with the provided mallet.
Those who suffer with claustrophobia might not enjoy the deeper caves, but do explore them if you can: the subterranean silence is deafening!
Image by Craig Hindmarsh
Hit the Beach
Da Nang beach is well loved for its reliable surfing conditions. Surf lessons and board rentals are available, so it’s a great opportunity to learn this sport (if you don’t know already). There are demarcated swimming zones attended by lifeguards, but these are very narrow – so I felt a little bunched in with my fellow bodysurfers. Otherwise, the chief activities are sunbathing and enjoying a cocktail at one of the many beachside bars. My favourite sundowner bar was Paradise, where they were offering a very generous 3-for-2 deal on drinks (bringing the cost down to about £1 per drink!).
Image by Craig Hindmarsh
Visit the Bread and Butter Bakery
I’m not a big fan of cakes in general – but I was impressed by the Bread and Butter Bakery in Mỹ An. This vast cafe proffered some of the most beautiful cakes and baked treats I’ve ever seen. I didn’t buy anything on my first visit, but the memory of all those elaborate cakes stuck in my head – and I returned the next day for a chocolate-covered wonder (89K / £3), consuming it in record time. The cafe has lots of comfortable seating, so it’s a great place to hang out or get some work done. This is one of the fancier examples of Vietnam’s vibrant cafe culture.
What I loved (and didn’t love) about Da Nang
As ever, it’s the people that make a place special – and Da Nang is a prime example of this. Almost every local I met had a warm and easy smile. I think Da Nang may be special in this regard – since Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi, while friendly enough, were not quite as welcoming as Da Nang.
The city is also considerably more affordable than the above-mentioned cities, particularly in terms of hotels. A simple ‘banh mi’ sandwich costs around 75p, as does a local coffee. Of course, you can pay two or three times this if you frequent tourist-focussed establishments.
Another plus was the abundant vegetarian/meat-free food. A highlight was a place called Loving Vegan, where you can enjoy dishes like vegan Phở and Pad Thai for 45-55K VND (£2).
I didn’t enjoy crossing the road: the city’s thoroughfares demand that pedestrians look both ways several times. The beachside road was particularly busy and difficult to cross – although there are a scattering of ‘green man’ crossings and at least one underpass. Another slight annoyance was the local drivers’ habit of honking their horns at every intersection – and given the city is mostly built on a grid system, there was a lot of honking!
Image by Craig Hindmarsh
Top tips for visiting Da Nang
Download the Grab app: This useful app lets you book mototaxis and taxis, and get food deliveries. I even managed to get some paracetamol delivered after I caught a cold during the first few days!
Don’t worry about tipping: Whether to tip, or by how much, often stresses me out when in an unfamiliar destination. But tipping isn’t expected here in Da Nang – although it’s always appreciated if someone goes above and beyond for you. That said, you should tip after a massage – 20% is a good ballpark figure.
Haggle with your hotel: In Da Nang (and across Vietnam) it’s not rude to try and negotiate a better rate for your hotel room – especially if you plan to stay for a week or so. However, you won’t have much luck in busier periods such as Tet!
Be polite: Politeness is a cornerstone of Vietnamese culture – particularly in Da Nang. Remember to return smiles, and when someone gives you change, take it with both hands (Vietnam only has paper money).
Would you go to Da Nang again?
Absolutely! With its hot climate, excellent beach, and vibrant cafe scene, Da Nang is a must for anyone looking to relax – without spending too much money. I met several travellers who had come here to escape the crowds and increased costs of Thailand, so it’s a great choice if you’re on a budget, but don’t want to miss out on your beach fix.
Travel Writer Bio
Craig enjoys exploring exotic places globally, but has a particular affection for Southeast Asia. From his temporary base in the steamy backwaters of Cambodia, he strikes out in search of adventure, wisdom – and excellent coffee.
Craig Hindmarsh at Da Nang Beach Vietnam
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